Sunday, May 23, 2010

Tim Hargreaves

Maggie, Tim and me at Cape Peron, Francois Peron National Park, Shark Bay









Quite the opposite of Arthur Pepper is Tim Hargreaves, a cosmopolitan Englishman who has been living in Australia for about 40 years. Slim, agile, sporty, refined voice and manners with quite a hint of irony and sarcasm. Tim is also a very knowledgable tour operator who cannot only share his knowledge of politics and history but he would share his knowledge and feelings he gained as an English Australian Shark Bay local.

Tim speaks better Malay than me and caused me to blush quite a few times. His house is reminiscent of one of those Spanish Moorish houses you see so often in Andalusia, Spain. When you enter his house which he called a Christian Center, you really feel the present of Jesus and some very meditative peace. His wife Maggie is a lovely, very Christian lady who, like himself, has never forgotten her English roots.

We spent some time on a tour, going to Monkey Mia and had insightful discussions about Christianity in their home. At the age of 72, Tim is fit enough to drive the 4WD through the unbearably hot bumpy area of Francois National Park, among others letting air off the tyres and runing around with his van.

Tim's book Dolphin Bay is worth a read, for Shark Bay locals and visitors alike. It is said that you either shoot him or find him amusing. Until now I found him amusing and entertaining, a lot of parallels in his life to my own life.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Photos of residents of Shark Bay

Weekly dart at RSL club. Few tourists and lots of locals


Darren Capes(left), Aboriginal walking leader



Fay, me and Trevor Deacon




Small girl caught a big fish



The Aboriginal Yadgallah Community in Shark Bay. Actually there is little Aboriginal blood in them but rather Indonesian or Asian

Arthur "Pep" Pepper

Reciting Banjo Patterson in his home
Pep proudly showing the sign for the Pepper Trail














You can hear his sound, rather loud and articulate voice from miles away. Pep has lost a great deal of his hearing and sometimes you never know how much he can still understand. His appearance is that of one of the old stockmen who are so often written about in Henry Lawson or Banjo Patterson's books. A stockman's hat with a broad brim, a leather-like skin worn out by hard working in the harsh nearly rotten climate of the bush. HOwever, he would transform into a nearly British gentleman when he goes out in the evening.

Arthur Pepper or "Pep" or "Peppie" as everybody in town calls him was born 74 years ago as the son from English tracker Tom Pepper and a partly Aboriginal mother. A predominantly white man in appearance and mannerism you can still perceive something very Aboriginal in him and he never tried to deny it for a single moment. As punctual and accurate as a German, quite tidy and orderly in his house, he sometimes talks about the significance of relationships which are only experienced by an indigenous person.

He was rough around the edges but his heart warm and generous. Never angry and quite laid-back he said he would only become mad when people abuse animals. If you look for deeper conversations and discussions, Pep would probably not be the one for you. Sometimes I really thought that he couldn't really distinguish a human being from one of his sheep or cattle. As a born gentleman he would not leave your wine(or beer?)glass empty. Everytime when I bought him food or beer, he would buy you back twice the amount he received.

His meticulous manners reminded me of a German. He would literally keep his word and show up at any appointment 5 minutes before time. I visited him in his house which was decorated with artefacts such as old leather belts, photos, whips and other tools used in a sheep and cattle outcamp. His collection of books about Australian outback history, Banjo Patterson and Henry Lawson's works as well as the Holy Books of the Bible would tell the whole life of a man who has always lived in an isolated Australian country area, happy with his own company.

He claimed not to be religious but I rather had the feeling that he had some issues with the institutional part of the Church. Well, we had something more in common in this case.....He recited some of Banjo Patterson's works and it came right from his heart. Only a true blue Aussie bushman can feel what Banjo Patterson tried to tell. Myself on the contrary prefer a lot of Henry Lawson's writings who always described the huge contrasting differences between the two Australian cultures, the remote countryside and the city.....Henry Lawson passed away in Sydney early 20th century but he always thought of himself as a bushman.

When it happened that I needed to raise my voice towards this stubborn and quite deaf man, the only reaction was:"Jeezz....you are like my father. A fuckin wild horse." If you ever get to visit the shearing homestead which is now not a working station anymore but rather part of the Francois Peron National Park, you will see the Pepper Trail named after his family along with information of the work on the shearing station. After all the pastoral land including homestead was bought by the government, Pep continued to work for the National Park after 40 years working in the homestead as it was still a working station. A true first-hand Australian experience with Pep. When you ever come to Denham just look out for Pep, the broad little man with that huge hat....

Photos of Denham and Shark Bay

Emu feeding in front of the tourist office

Emus walking in Denham

20 kg Cod fish

View from my dining room

Beach view opposite my place

Denham...I lost my heart.....

Darren Capes, famous Aboriginal walking leader from Denham, once put it in such a spot-on manner. " It is not enough when you just see a country, you have to feel it". Many people told me that I should just skip Denham and go to Monkey Maya for a day. I arrived in Denham late night and it was just too dark to really enjoy the town. What started as initially just a stop turned into a social and environmental experience full of joy. I made so many friends, learnt much from DEC(Department of Environment and Conservation) workers, got involved in many social events and last but not least.....I received so many hosting offers from locals who were not Couchsurfers. However, I had signed the lease of my wonderful apartment by the sea and preferred my own privacy where I can cook for people.

Denham has a lively history starting from famous sheep shearers up to discoverers of the shipwreck the Zuytdorp. The town has interesting ethnic diversity because the Aboriginals were descendants of the Indonesian pearlers mixed with whites and Aboriginals. Current research is conducted whether the survivors of the shipwreck the Zuytdorp mixed with the Aboriginals because their skeletons were never found.

I learnt new skills like kayaking with tiger sharks nibbling my boat from underneath, improved my fishing skills and even learnt how to fillet a fish. Because the restaurants were not allowed to sell fresh fish, we needed to catch the fish ourselves. Many Australian travellers come here just for fishing and at night you see many people fishing breams, mullets and squid from the jetty. The first thing that I needed to learn was how to estimate how many bowels each type of fish had and where to start cutting without all the treasures flowing out and spoil the good meat.

Most people meet in the bowling club and I found out that there was a lot of fun stuff to do in Denham. The vast turquoise tapestry of ocean surface changing its colours gradually to deep blue was the most impressive scenery that I could watch from my dining room everyday. I visited the conservation workers(DEC or Department of Environment and Conservation) in the Francois Peron National Park everyday and could find out a lot about their work. First hand experience with real people in Shark Bay